So, with nothing really pressing to do today, I came in to my shop to prep a large belt/disk sander I recently picked up at an auction. You may be thinking, second hand, so I must be just talking about cleaning it up, or possibly new abrasives, but that's not how I work. This machine was in really great shape when I got it. I could have brought it back, put a new belt on (the disk is in perfect shape) and used it from the start with no major problems. First thing to do is track down an owners manual and parts breakdown for the unit. I was sure nothing was missing, but I always check out a used tool before it goes in to use since it could really mangle someone if things come undone. All was well there. Next was to follow the directions to make sure everything was lined up the way it should be so the belt would track correctly. All seems well with that too (belts are on order, so I'm not 100% sure yet) Next comes the hard part and its the thing that almost every shop I deal with neglects.
When you purchase a stationary power tool, they almost all have some kind of table to support your work. On good quality tools, these table are made of cast iron, and machined flat and smooth. Once they are made, the company selling the tool will spray some sort of clear lacquer, or sealant on the table to keep it from rusting. Most people get the tool, and go right in to using it with out really taking the time to make the table nice. For me, that means getting out a random orbit sander, and starting in with 160 grit paper. You want to strip off that protective coating because while it keeps the table nice and rust free, it almost always makes the wood stick to it rather than just gliding over the table. Its less of a problem with the metal working tools, but I strip them too. After the 160, I usually go to 220, or 260. You really don't want to start out below 160 since you really want to avoid scoring the table surface. I've gone as low as 60 on (shudder) a belt sander to bring back a table saw that had been outside rusting for 40 years. That's not something most people want to bother with. If you do have to go that low, work your way back up the grits taking out the scoring, and don't try to jump up in grit too fast or you'll be frustrated at how slow your progress goes. (and how many sanding pads you go through)
Don't bother trying to get the machining lines out of the table unless you've got a lot of time on your hands. For the most part they won't affect much unless you are doing some over the top, excessive fine finish work. I've known people who have had brand new tools taken and re-ground at a machine shop to remove the manufactures machining lines. They end up with a gorgeous table surface, and a sizable machine shop bill. Not needed in my book, but to each their own.
Once you've got your table nice and shiny you've got a couple options on what to do to protect it. The traditional thing to do, and still quite popular is to use a carnauba wax. That's a solid, hard wax, often sold as butchers wax, and frequently an ingredient in car waxes. You rub this stuff on in a circular motion until your arm is sore, then wait a while, and go rub it off until your arm falls off. (think Karate Kid... Wax on...Wax off...) While I've done this, and it works nicely, it really is a pain. Being in theatre, and always looking for a quicker way to do things (not to mention easier) I started using liquid car wax that I was using on my truck. I found that Nu Finish seemed to work the best in terms of how easy ti was to apply, versus how long it would hold up on the tool. A word of caution here, car waxes that are not 100% carnauba wax can cause problems it they rub off the table and on to the wood. You need to decide if that is going to be an issue for your application if you go the car wax route. The most recent method I have found is a product called Top Cote. I got a can of this stuff 2 years ago, and I'm just now about to run out. It hold up extremely well in my shop, and its a breeze to apply. (which means it happens more often, so the surfaces never get a chance to get rusty/sticky again) The two guys that designed Top Cote, are now with a different company doing the same kind of thing, so I'm going to have to give their product a whirl too. I can however safely recommend the Top Cote with no fear of steering you wrong.
Its simple folks, get your tables clean and rust free, then keep them that way, and you'll be amazed at how much easier it is to work with your equipment!